Finally got to try Pizza Club, the idiosyncratic "restaurant" run by as-Italian-as-they-come (or is there another kind?) Massimo and Tracy. First off, the space is a casual deli by day and turns into the “Club” Wednesday through Saturday nights. It is a hard-working and plain space, so don't expect your typical pizzeria: wooden tables and chairs (communal seating is the norm), very ad hoc decor... in other words rough and ready, but filled with vibrant energy and a very warm welcome from the always on-hand owners and a few keen runners.

The concept is unusual - you can order from the menu but are encouraged to strap in for the "pizza feast" (around R90) where a series of boards are brought to you, from pizza bianco to margherita and onwards to the richer variations and quite a few nouveau creations like confit duck or boerewors (which I am still not convinced by). This feast is the way to do it, ideal for carefree eating stretched out over a bit of time and a few bottles of wine. The wine list is decent too; not over-priced.

After a slightly undercooked start to the bianco, we commented that we found it a little soft and underdone, he suggested that the local clientele preferred this, while he also preferred the crust crispier – the real deal. I wonder if this is the effect on the consumer of so many years of poor pizza from franchises?

Anyway, the quality of the pizza certainly picked up after this and it’s easy to recommend this spot as a good re-calibration in true pizza. To finish, the tiramisu was average, while ice creams are good, in a gelato style. Coffee was, sadly, poor and did no justice to Massimo's fantastic limoncello, probably the best in town.

Advanced bookings are encouraged, they have two sittings, one at 6pm, ideal for families with small kids, and another at 8pm. Massimo's Pizza Club @ Scarecrows, Oakhurst Farm Park, Main Road, Hout Bay.  Call 073 3901373 or 021 7907906. They also now do take-away.
For more on restaurants go to www.rossouwsrestaurants.com – the independent guide to eating in South Africa. The full Rossouw’s Restaurants 2009 guide is available at leading bookstores and deli’s, and from the website.